An end to razor burn?

I know it’s been a while – I have two pieces of news:

First, I’ve just put the finishing touches to a 13 page report containing all the tips I’ve found (and a few I discovered myself) for getting a smoother shave – and ending razor burn.  you can download it for free – a kind of present to anyone else who suffers from the same kind of shaving rashes and razor burn I used to.

Secondly, A Smoother Shave has moved to www.asmoothershave.com

You can get the report from there – hope you find it useful.

A quick tip

I’ve just picked this one up – haven’t even tried it myself yet. But it makes sense, and I’ll give it a try shortly.

When you’re showering, before you shave (which makes a big difference in itself – showering before you shave softens the beard) use a little tiny bit of hair conditioner on your beard. It softens the hairs in the same way as it softens hair when you use it.

Then when you come to shave, the hairs are soft and cut more easily. And there you go – a smoother shave.

Does it work? I’ll let you know shortly. I have to admit, though, that unless it works brilliantly, I probably wouldn’t bother with it. But if you had especially thick, hard to cut hair, it might make a bigger difference.

A downside of the cartridge razors

The main reason I like using an old-fashioned double edged safety razor is that it gives a really close shave, with no razor burn.  And, once you get the hang of it, no cuts either.

Some people like it because they’re cool – and I can understand that.  They do make you feel more like a proper man than something made of tacky plastic.

But there’s a third advantage.  With a modern cartridge razor, it’s really hard to get the bits of moustache just under your nose.  And to get a straight edge to your hair – where your sideburns are.

With a double edged razor, it’s a piece of cake.  In fact, even when I’ve been trying out the Azor, sometimes I’ve used my DE razor to tidy up those bits.

Now, I know Gillette’s Fusion has a single blade on the back – but that must be part of the reason it costs a fortune.  It seems so wasteful to have a separate blade that you’ll hardly ever use.

And the older cartridge razors weren’t so bad.  When you only had one or two blades, you could get into the awkward bits fine.  It’s just when they got to 3 or more blades that it all started going wrong.

And that’s one more reason why I tend to go for the old-fashioned option.  Because it’s one more reason why it works better.

Shaving cream vs shaving soap…

Some things I have a strong opinion on.  I definitely prefer wet shaving, I definitely prefer using a shaving brush instead of gel or foam and I definitely prefer to use moisturiser afterwards instead of an old-fashioned, alcohol based after-shave. 

But one think I’m not so sure of is whether I prefer shaving cream or shaving soap.  I use both – and I quite like both.

There are some differences:

• Soap is a little more drying (unless you put oil on first).  So if your skin tends to be dry, I’d use cream.
• Most creams (at least the ones with glycerine in) tend to eventually build up a little on the brush – then using soap once gives you brush a good clean.  Or you could be less lazy than me and just wash your brush.
• I prefer soap for travel – just because if the top comes loose in your case it doesn’t make such a mess…
• If you have a tub of cream, instead of a tube, you have to be a bit careful not to end up getting water in it every time you shave – eventually turning it into a mush.

But there are also differences between different brands – or even between different scents from the same brand.  So it’s worth experimenting. 

One of my favorites is Trufitt & Hill’s Trafalgar shaving cream.  A good shave and one tub lasts for ages.  Or if you want something a bit cheaper, use the Boots own brand shaving cream.  The smell is a bit, er, medicinal.  But it shaves pretty well.

But whatever you use, soap or cream, as long as you use a brush with it, you’ll get a much better result than from a can of foam or gel.  Whether you use a double edged razor or a cartridge one, I’d definitely recommend using a brush and soap or cream.

Wet shave vs electric shave – which is better?

Every so often, I end up talking to someone about shaving in the pub.  Not often – I’m not that much of a shave-geek. 

But occasionally. 

And one thing I sometimes get accused of, round about the third pint of Copper Dragon, is being behind the times.  “Why would anyone wet-shave nowadays” my opposite number will ask “when you can use an electric shaver in half the time and without the risk of getting cut?” 

Well, I have to admit I like the heft and style of a decent razor.  Much cooler than a buzzy electric thing. 

But that’s not the real reason.  The real reason is that it’s just better. 

First off, it’s a closer shave.  There’s no doubt about that at all in my mind.  Even using a cartridge razor, you get a smoother, closer shave than an electric one.  I once saw some close up pictures of what the hairs look like after they’re cut.  Wet shaving neatly slices them just above the skin.  Electric shaving grabs one side and tears it apart – leaving it all ragged. 

And if you use a double edged razor, it’s even closer still. 

If you suffer from razor bumps, in my experience even that is better with a wet shave.  Yes, if you stumble about as you shave you might cut yourself.  But if you’re careful, once you’ve got a bit of practice, you’ll hardly ever cut yourself.  With me, if I electric shave, even if I’m careful, I’ll get a nasty red rash under my neck nearly every time.  With a wet-shave, that only occasionally happens. 

Against all that, electric shaving is quicker.  I’ll grant that – so if you don’t get razor burn and don’t care how smooth your shave is, you might say you’d rather save the time. 

I’ve got two arguments against that.

First, if I shave properly, it’s so much closer that one day later, it’s as smooth as if I’d just shaved with an electric razor.  So if I want, I can wet shave every other day and still be at least as smooth as if I electric shaved daily. 

Secondly, if you’re like me, half your best ideas come whilst shaving.  Taking a bit longer over it gives me more time to think what to cook for dinner tonight, think about what to get my better half for her birthday or just what to do with the weekend. And some of my best business ideas come whilst shaving. 

So there you go.  If I electric shaved, I wouldn’t have had event he good ideas I have had – and so I’d be poorer.  Electric shaving makes you poorer. 

Nothing like a outrageously contentious claim, is there?

A bit of perspective on shaving against the grain

You know, people can get pretty dogmatic about shaving.  You wouldn’t expect it.  But some people will say that anyone who doesn’t use a such-and-such razor can hardly be called shaved.  Others will say that if you don’t use so-and-so with the blades from somewhere else then you’re not worth thinking about.

It’s not just the equipment, either.

I’ve read things like: “You should never, ever shave against the grain.”  And I’ve read things like “First, shave with the grain, then against the grain” – with no “if you need to” or “you might want to try…”

Here’s my tuppence worth (I suppose in the current economic climate that really isn’t worth much – maybe it should be my pound’s worth):

If you can avoid it and you have a tendency to get razor burn or bumps, don’t shve against the grain.  If you don’t get razor burn, then you could do it if you like and if you find it gives you a close shave.

You don’t need to do the same thing over the whole of your face, either.  On my cheeks, I can shave however I like and not get any razor burn at all.  Hurrah.  So I shave against the grain for a closer finish.

On my neck I get redness and itching if I’m not careful.  So I shave with the grain and only go against the grain on any little areas that still look like they need to be shaved closer.  Then I regret it and wish I’d stuck to my rules of only going with the gain on my neck.

Like all the rest of this stuff, don’t take what I say as gospel – at least not for you.  Everyone’s different, so by all means try out what works for me, but experiment with other approaches too – without getting dogmatic about it.

Except, of course, that electric shavers are satan-spawn.  Clearly.  Ahem.

Three more unusual tips for a better shave (just as good as the last 7)

Never count your chickens, they say. Well, I shouldn’t have counted my shaving tips. (Not as catchy, I know, but there you are).

Only a few hours after I wrote it one more popped into my head “Drat” I thought. “Should have included that one.” Then an hour or so later it happened again. “Blast – that one made a big difference to me. Might be good for other people too.”

And that night, half asleep I suddenly thought of one more. So here you go – three more unusual tips for a better shave (just as good as the last 7)

1. Use more water. No matter whether you use cream or soap (or even gel) you’ll almost certainly get a better result if you use more water when you mix it. The sloppier it is, the better it’ll help the blade glide. And if you’re going over the same area again (eg you’ve gone with the grain and you’re now going against the grain) you probably only need to wet it – not put more lather on.
2. You don’t need lots of lather. You always see pictures of shaving chaps looking like Father Christmas. But it’s only the lather in contact with your stubble that actually does any good. The rest just makes a mess and might clog up your razor. You only need a thin layer of lather. 
3. Once you’ve put the lather on, let it soak for a while. Leave it on your face to soak into the stubble, softening it. Give it enough time to really soak in, instead of diving straight into scraping it all off. It’ll make the hairs easier to cut and give you a smoother shave – which is the whole point!

Right – we’ll see if I suddenly realise I’ve missed something else I meant to include!

7 unusual & little-known tips: How to get a better shave, whether you use a cartridge or double edged safety razor

There are some standard tips on shaving well: change the blade often enough, use smooth strokes and don’t drink too much of your favorite single malt first. 

But I’ve found a few tricks that people don’t seem to talk about – that still make big difference.  One or two I picked up from a throw-away comment somewhere.  Others I found by trial and error.

I’d definitely recommend giving all these a try:

1. Shave AFTER you shower, not before.  It’s tempting to shave first because then you shower all the soap away.  But if you shower first, your beard gets nice and soft.  Some people shave in the shower but I can’t get the mirror to stay completely clear – and you can just rinse your face afterwards to get rid of the soap. 
2. Soak your brush before you use it (you are using a shaving brush, aren’t you?  Even if you use a gel, it’s worth it.  And you should try a soap or cream.).  Just stick it in water and leave it for a minute while you get everyone out of the cupboard.  Or run it under the tap for a while.  But don’t just quicker get it wet – let the water really soak in, even if you then have to flick some off.  It helps you get a better lather.
3. How coffee can help you get a better shave – no, I’m not going crazy and suggesting coffee instead of shaving soap.  What I mean is when you get up in the morning, don’t shave straight away.  Have breakfast or a coffee or something first.  It gives you skin a chance to wake up and just as importantly it gives you a chance to clear your bleary eyes and wake up fully yourself.  Which means you’ll be more alert and more accurate in your shaving. 
4. If you have dry or sensitive skin, use oil underneath shaving soap.  Don’t feel you have to spend a fortune on expensive shaving oil.  Get yourself a bottle of ordinary olive oil, put some in a jar and dab it on your face and wipe around.  Then lather up as normal.  It’ll give you a super smooth shave.  But also it’ll leave your skin moisturised.  Better to avoid drying your skin out in the first place than just put balm on afterwards.
5. Get a proper shaving mirror.  One on an extending arm.  Mine only cost £5 from Tesco’s, so it doesn’t have to be expense.  Then you can have it right up close so you can see exactly what you’re doing.  Plus, they look cool.
6. After you’ve rinsed your face in nice warm water, splash it all in cold water – the colder the better.  It might make you breathe in suddenly, but it’ll close your skin pores up and help stop any tiny nicks from bleeding.  For me, this actually makes more difference to how my skin feels afterwards than using a shaving balm – it’s that important.
7. Don’t chop and change your razor too much.  It’s hard for me to say this, because I like trying different ones.  But you get used to a particular razor and learn how to get the best out of it.  Swapping around all the time leaves you using the technique that’s right for one with another – and you get a shave that’s not as good as you could get with either.

Do that lot and you should get pretty close to the perfect shave.

So, what’s wrong with the Azor?

I was just looking back at what I’ve written and realised it all comes across as pretty glowing.  So I thought there ought to be a bit of balance – what’s not so good about the Azor.

 Well, the first thing I found was that I don’t like the design of the handle.  I tend to hold a razor with one finger fairly close to the blades.  That way I can really control the angle.  But with the way the blade is held in place by two prongs instead of in the middle, you can’t do that.  I got used to it but still don’t like it as much – and I think it’s harder to shave well that way.

Then there’s the price.  It is cheaper than a Gillette or Wilkinson Sword cartridge razor – and it does seem like the blades last longer.  But it’s still a lot more than double edged blades.  Around a pound per cartridge instead of more like 15p per blade.  Not a fortune but still, it adds up.

Most importantly, it doesn’t shave as close.  Again, if you’re comparing it to other cartridge razors, it’s just as good.  But compared to a double edged safety razor, it’s not so close.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s pretty good.  It feels nice and smooth after a shave.  But by the end of the day I’m feeling stubbly.  With a double edge, I stay nice and smooth all day.

I’m still going to give it a bit longer, but I’m beginning to think I prefer the double edged razor for a good shave but the Azor is quicker and less likely to end up in a bloodbath.  I might keep one for those rushed mornings.

PS Fate wasn’t too tempted yesterday – no nasty cuts this morning!

Shall I compare thee to a double edged safety razor?

I’ve been talking about trying out the Azor without saying what I’m comparing it to.  Any scientists reading have probably already thrown up their hands in horror at the lack of a “control”.

So here you go…

Most of the time, I use a vintage double edged safety razor.  It used to be my Grandfather’s and I inherited it. I’m not sure exactly what make it is – there are no obvious brand names but I suspect it’s a copy of a standard Gillette model.

I currently have Wilkinson Sword blades in it – and that’s what I use most of the time.  I’ve also tried Tesco own brand blades (which cost even less – this really is budget shaving – an inherited razor and cheap blades).  They’re not bad at all – much better than you’d expect.  But they don’t seem to last as long as the Wilkinson Sword ones, so they probably aren’t really much cheaper in the long run.

 Most of the time, I use a Truefitt & Hill “Trafalgar” Shaving cream with a shaving brush.  I can’t get on with brushless creams at all – they just don’t get all slippery so the blade scrapes instead of sliding.  You might find they work great for you – but not for me.  I love the smell of the Truefitt and Hill and it gives a nice “glide” to the shave.  It doesn’t dry my skin out at all, either.

 And sometimes (carrying on the budget shaving theme) I use a tub of shaving soap I got from Boots (note for non-UK readers – that doesn’t mean I found it in a boot or anything weird.  It’s a chain of chemist shops).  It cost about £3 and smells pretty, well, chemical.  But it shaves quite nicely.

 (Part of the reason I use it is that after a while, my shaving brush gets a bit clogged with the glycerine in the shaving cream.  I could wash it with soap but using the shaving soap to shave with cleans it just as well and saves the effort.  See, I’m cheap and lazy.)

So that’s what I use normally.

Oh, and afterwards I use a Nivea after shave lotion that’s basically a moisturiser.  No scent or anything fancy – just stops my skin feeling too rough.  Once or twice I’ve nabbed my wife’s moisturiser when I’ve run out and it’s felt exactly the same.

And on a bad day, the alum stick.  Not so often anymore, though.  Which may have just tempted fate – we’ll see tomorrow morning.